Essential tips for plant-based yarn substitutions.

Hello friends,

Picture this: You've found the dream summer knit pattern that seems perfect for warm weather. But then you see it calls for wool yarn, which can be a bit too toasty for those sunny days. You might want something lighter and cooler, so this is where plant-based yarns come in!

However, when switching from wool to plant-based yarns, there are a few important factors to consider, especially for beginners.

Let's discuss 2 key things to keep in mind when substituting plant-based yarn.

1. The Math mystery of plant-based yarns.

During the testing phase of my brand new summer sweater, "Zephyr" (which I'll be sharing next week! 🥳), we discovered a significant difference in calculations when using plant-based yarn compared to wool.

Unlike wool, plant-based yarns like cotton can be heavier. This means larger size garments (think anything bigger than XL) might end up a bit roomier than expected with plant-based substitutions. We made necessary adjustments and now Zephyr sweater fits just right even in larger sizes!

If you're adapting a pattern designed for wool yarn with a plant-based alternative, a swatch won't necessarily give you the most accurate picture. This is because knitted fabric stretches under its own weight, and the bigger the piece is, the heavier it becomes.

Okay, you might wonder, what to do then? Here's a tip to ensure a perfect fit:

  1. First of all consider top-down constructed garments. These garments allow you to try on the piece as you knit, making micro-adjustments on the go.

  2. Moreover, here's my favorite tip for top-down garments: when you get to the point of separating for sleeves and body, knit a few extra centimeters, place those stitches on hold, and then begin knitting the sleeve. This way, if the sleeve will be too wide, you can easily go back and make adjustments if needed in the end of the yoke, without unraveling the entire body.

  3. To avoid the frustration of having to frog (rip out) a project because of sizing issues of substitution to plant-based yarn, consider knitting a size smaller (or even two for plus sizes) to achieve the desired fit.

2. Texture and Composition

Back in the day when I was first learning to knit, I often made the mistake of only focusing on the weight and yardage of the yarn in the pattern (like 50 grams for 120 yards), completely ignoring the texture.

One time, I bought superwash yarn expecting the same fluffiness as the alpaca yarn in the pattern photo. Big surprise – superwash yarn has a different texture! Alpaca is definitely the fluffier option. 🤔

This highlights the importance of understanding texture and composition, especially when working with plant-based yarns.

Here's a quick breakdown of some popular options:

  • Mercerized cotton: This has a very shiny finish.

  • Plain cotton: Offers a natural, matte look.

  • Linen: This has a unique and slightly rough texture.

  • Cotton blends: Combine the best of both worlds, offering cotton's breathability with other fibers' qualities.

One last thing! If you've never knitted with plant-based yarn before, you might notice slight stitch variations compared to wool - the knitted fabric might be not so perfect even as you may have in wool yarn.

But don't let that discourage you! These are simply characteristics of handmade crafts and add a personal touch to your creation, making it truly one-of-a-kind. And your next plant-based yarn project will be more even.

🎬 Video of the week.
Looking for a deeper dive into yarn substitution (beyond plant-based options)?

Check out the fantastic video Yarn substitution explained by Wool Needles Hands. Tayler breaks down the 4 key elements to consider when substituting yarn: fiber content, color, texture, and density.

📔 This Week's Esenotes Spotlight: The THEA Top by Susanne Müller (Paulastrickt).

Why You'll Love It:

  • Top-down tank top with no seams or short rows.

  • The THEA Top offers incredible versatility. Choose light colors for a relaxed everyday look, or switch to black for a sophisticated evening option. Find inspiration from over 800 Thea Top projects on Ravelry!

  • Great for adventurous beginners (but not complete novices).

  • Clear instructions with photos to guide you through the process, even if you haven't done some techniques before.

  • Note: Don't be intimidated by the initial crochet hook cast-on. You can cast on stitches with your needles as well!

🧶 The perfect yarn pairing: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK

Adding to our collection of budget-friendly plant-based yarns, we have Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton). I've previously spotlighted Drops Belle and Sandnes Garn Line, and now Paintbox enters the scene with a massive color palette (60+ colors) to ignite your creativity.


As an added bonus, there's currently a 40% sale happening at LoveCrafts website (you can choose the delivery country).

​❤️ I hope this Esenote was useful and inspiring!

Warm regards,
Julia Piro
Knitwear Designer & Esenotes Curator


P.S. Looking for even more inspiration? Follow me on ​Instagram​ or ​Facebook​!

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Wish I knew this before I ruined my wool sweaters.